It sounds dramatic, like battening a ship before a squall, but it’s actually a small, practical thing that stops rain driving in and warm air bleeding out. Across the UK, older frames and rattly sashes are the weak spots. People are reaching for tape, foam strips, even hairdryers. Not panic. Just prep.
My street smelled of rain long before any fell. You know that damp, tinny scent that arrives ahead of big weather. Up the terrace, a neighbour in a paint-splattered fleece was gently pressing a strip of grey foam into the gap around his sash window, pausing whenever a car went by, like he didn’t want to be seen fussing. The corner shop’s A-board thudded, then skated an inch on the pavement. A WhatsApp pinged: “Anyone need extra weatherstrip?” We’ve all had that moment when the forecast pings and your stomach sinks. A gull wheeled low over the roofs. Then the wind shifted.
Why ‘seal your windows’ is trending before Storm [Name]
Everyone talks about roofs and fences in a storm. The truth is, the smallest leak is often at eye level. Wind-driven rain finds hairline cracks in old putty, tiny gaps by latches, the thin line where a sash meets its frame. When forecasters say “seal your windows,” they mean slow the draughts and block the obvious entry points for water. It’s domestic triage, not a renovation.
In Brighton last winter, a couple in a draughty ground-floor flat tried a budget fix. They spent under a tenner on adhesive foam and clear film, then filmed themselves pressing the strip into two leaky sash frames before a blow. The difference was immediate. Curtains stopped billowing, the whistling died away, and the room felt less like a train platform. **A quick seal doesn’t turn a cottage into a fortress, but it does turn a storm night from miserable to manageable.**
There’s physics behind the fuss. High winds create pressure differences across your home, sucking warm air out on the lee side and forcing wet air into the smallest gaps on the windward side. Horizontal rain is relentless. If frames are damp or dusty, tape won’t stick and foam won’t grip, which is why “do it before it arrives” matters. Sealing is also about control: you decide where the air moves, not the storm. For renters, it’s mostly reversible and low-drama.
A fast, foolproof way to seal windows tonight
Start with a clean, dry frame. Wipe the inside edges where the sash meets the sill and stile, then run a tissue along to feel where air is moving. Cut self-adhesive foam or rubber weatherstrip a fraction longer than each run and press it in, corner to corner, without stretching. For single-glazed panes, add a temporary window film kit, warming it with a hairdryer until it shrinks drum-tight. Towels at the sill help if rain starts to snake in.
Leave trickle vents open if you have gas appliances or a solid-fuel stove. Ventilation keeps you safe. Don’t block weep holes on the outside of uPVC frames; those tiny slots drain water away. Let’s be honest: nobody really does this every day. You’re tired and you want it done. So pick the worst offenders—the rattly sitting-room sash and the north-facing bedroom—and do those well. Mask locks and hinges, not over them, to avoid sticking shut what you might need to open.
Wet paint and dusty frames are the nemesis of tape. If a surface is even slightly damp, a quick blast with a hairdryer makes a world of difference. Use low-tack painter’s tape on painted timber for a temporary seal, not bargain masking tape that tears paint when you peel it. In that hush before the first squall, time feels rubbery. **A tidy, patient five minutes at one window beats a frantic twenty across four.**
“Seal where the light shows and where the breeze sings. Preserve the parts that keep you safe—vents, locks, and escape routes. Think ‘tight where it leaks, open where it breathes.’”
- What to grab: self-adhesive foam or rubber strip (6–10 mm), low-tack painter’s tape, microfibre cloths
- Optional extras: clear window film kit, silicone sealant for non-opening gaps, scissors, a hairdryer
- Also handy: a torch, kitchen roll to spot moisture, a small step stool for high frames
After the gusts: what to look for
When the noise drops and the kettle boils again, do a slow lap. Look for fine tracks of water on sills, swollen paint around beading, or fogging between panes that wasn’t there yesterday. Touch the corners where frame meets wall. Cool and dry is good; cool and clammy needs a second glance. Peel back a corner of any temporary tape to check the paint’s intact before you remove the lot.
Condensation will spike after a stormy night, especially if you’ve sealed more than you’d planned. Crack windows on the sheltered side for ten minutes, run extractor fans, and leave internal doors ajar. If you used film, keep it on through the cold snap; it adds a whisper of insulation for free. **Small rituals—wipe, air, reset—turn a one-off fix into a calmer winter.**
Longer term, make a tiny list. A droplet at the latch might be cured with new gasket in spring. Putty that’s gone brittle deserves a proper re-glaze when the weather turns. And if a sash rattles every time a bus goes by, it’s begging for a rethink—brush seals, a service, or even secondary glazing. Talk to your landlord if you rent. A good photo, a quick note, and a “this keeps happening in rain from the west” often gets things moving.
Storm [Name] will pass; they always do. What lingers is what we learn from the way rain finds its way in and heat finds its way out. The simple habit of sealing windows before a blow works because it brings your attention to the smallest gaps in the life you’ve built indoors. Share tape with a neighbour. Trade a hairdryer for a spare torch. The weather is bigger than us, yet the answer is often the calm, fiddly, unglamorous task right in front of you. The one you’d usually put off. Tonight, it matters a little more.
| Key point | Detail | Interest for the reader |
|---|---|---|
| Seal early, when frames are dry | Adhesives grip on clean, dry surfaces; a quick wipe and a hairdryer help | Better stick, less frustration, fewer leaks at peak wind |
| Prioritise problem windows | Target windward and rattly sashes first; leave vents and weep holes clear | Maximum protection with minimum time and spend |
| Reset gently after the storm | Ventilate, check for moisture tracks, remove tape slowly, plan small fixes | Protect paintwork, prevent mould, and cut future heat loss |
FAQ :
- Should I seal every window in the house?Focus on the worst gaps, especially on the side facing the wind. Leave trickle vents open where you rely on them for safe ventilation, and never block weep holes in modern frames.
- Will tape or foam damage my paintwork?Use low-tack painter’s tape on painted timber and test a tiny patch first. Peel back slowly at a low angle. Foam weatherstrip is usually removable; clean residue with warm soapy water.
- Can I still open a window if I need fresh air?Yes, keep one on the sheltered side free for short air changes, especially after cooking or showers. Avoid sealing escape routes or any window you might need in an emergency.
- What if condensation gets worse after sealing?That can happen. Wipe sills in the morning, run extractor fans, and open a window on the lee side for 5–10 minutes. A dehumidifier on laundry days helps steady the balance.
- Beyond windows, what else should I do before Storm [Name]?Bring in garden furniture, clear leaves from drains, check gutters you can reach safely, charge power banks, and put torches where you can find them in the dark.

![UK residents urged to 'seal windows' as Storm [Name] approaches](https://www.londonfishnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/uk-residents-urged-to-seal-windows-as-storm-name-approaches.jpg)







Is sealing windows really nessessary, or a bit of theatre? A strip of foam feels flimsy against 70mph gusts—any data on how much it actually reduces ingress?